14 august 2021

Travel diary part one

This time I will not call it an article, but a diary of my journey. I will never forget this experience I had while I was a high school student. In the diary I write daily I try to write down every moment of my life, every pleasant and less pleasant experience.
I thought I would split this diary of my trip into two parts: actually the two days I had on the trip.

Romania is not only a beautiful country from a geographical, cultural or historical point of view, it is also rich from a religious point of view, with religious cults: monasteries and churches built after the fall of communism.

Here I want to tell you more about my experiences after visiting several monasteries from that period. This trip I made in the summer of 2001, on June 19/20 with my classmates and the Justian Teculă Christian Cultural Association, I took on the road to the monasteries. Two days in nature and quiet. There were more children than adults on this trip, they were the class leaders.

The initial start was from Brașov. We were supposed to see each other at 9 o'clock in the morning at the bus station next to the railway station. We all met at 8 o'clock in the morning at the Railway Station in Sfântul Gheorghe, to see each other to buy tickets to Brașov. This trip made us happy to drop out of school a bit. So we can rest. Let's see other beautiful places.
2 days before leaving on this wonderful trip, we were announced by the headmistress to prepare emotionally, emotionally and with the money and luggage that we will have 2 unforgettable days.

 First day: On Saturday morning I packed my bags to go on an unforgettable trip, I took my essentials, thick clothes, money for the necessary expenses, food, water and much more that I needed. I was very happy. I announced to my parents that I would go on a beautiful trip with the class and the teacher.

They let me go. They told me to take care of myself. I was happy. At 8 o'clock I was already at the Railway Station with luggage and an indescribable emotional state. Already the conductor and a few people were at the station waiting for me to come to buy tickets to Brasov. Emotions and agitation were at their peak.

I had the train to Brașov at 8:15. We had time to buy tickets and buy some more to feel good. I heard the train in the distance, the emotions growing louder as the train approached the platform.

We waited for the passengers to get off the train and we got on. I hoped that no event would happen on this trip, but why did so much happen and I will tell you what. They were the most memorable moments of my life. I arrived in Brașov around 8:40. We got off the train and ran to get out of CFR, to go directly to the bus that was waiting for us. In the distance I saw the buses and the crowd around them. They were waiting for us.

There were two buses with children and adults watching us during our trip. Later we found out that this trip of ours was organized by the Justian Tecula Cultural Association from Sfântul Gheorghe. But the buses were from Brasov. We enjoyed this two-day trip. We chose the places by the window to admire the beauty outside.

Our guide introduced himself and explained our route that we had during the two days of the trip.

Unfortunately, I didn't even remember all their names because I went there for the first time.
After visiting the whole route planned by the guide and the teachers who were with us, I wrote them down in my diary so as not to forget them. Now I will tell you the most important monasteries I visited in the 2 days. Frasinei Monastery, Cozia Monastery, Turnu Monastery, Curtea de Argeș Monastery, Cornetu-Brezoi Monastery, Govora Monastery, Bistrița Monastery, Horezu Monastery, Dintr un Lemn Monastery, I have only a few views of Surpat Monastery.
I wanted to write down my impressions of the places I visited, so as not to forget any details. We left Brașov, in front of us were opening some very beautiful and lively places, landscapes that I have never seen before. Mountains, vast forests, plains, and especially villages and small towns. I took the direction of Râmnicul Vâlcea.
At the exit from Câmpulung Muscel, on the right side were Bughea de Jos and Ciocanu Monastery. Our guide told us about the beauty of this place detached from stories. From here, I looked to the east, where there was a very beautiful panorama: mountain peaks, under them high hills, and at the foot of the hills a chain of villages.
We didn't know anything about this monastery before, because no one told us about it. Luckily we had a guide who told us something about the monastery.

The monasteries are surrounded by peace and offer the faithful who arrive there on pilgrimage the possibility of a spiritual reunion and a wonderful place of prayer. I will tell you one by one about each place I visited. Worth talking about if you want to visit them. You have something to see.

We went in the direction of Râmnicul Vâlcea, leaving Curtea de Argeș on the left side for the next day.
The first monastery we visited was the Hurezu Monastery, from the entrance to the monastery we were greeted by the smell of incense and the peace there. You could recharge with positive energy while you were at the monastery. Each monastery I visited conveyed a special energy, peace, tranquility and positivity.

The guide told us the story of that wonderful place. We listened intently to everything our guide told us. What I remember is that the Horezu Monastery (Hurezi) was founded by Constantin Brâncoveanu in 1690-1697. Among the historical monasteries, Hurezi is considered to be the most representative architectural complex defining the "Brancoveanu style". The church of the monastery was meant to become the necropolis of the Brâncovean family and the nation. There is also a legend from which the name of the monastery is derived. Legend has it that for fear of the Turks, the craftsmen worked only at night when the Huhures sang, hence the name of the monastery.

Hureza Monastery has two premises. In the first, exterior, delimited by strong brick walls, there is the first enclosure gate and a building with a floor on the right. The second enclosure has a rectangular shape, closed on three sides with buildings, with ground floor and first floor. The east side ends with a high wall, as in many enclosed monasteries.

Through all these historical testimonies and artistic beauty, the monastery of Huruza is one of the most convincing works of the multisecular spiritual creation that the great historian Nicolae Iorga called with a happy formulation in the work "Byzantium by Byzantium", continuation of Roman civilization, whose heirs in Eastern Europe are the Romans.

Next I leave it to you to discover for yourself this rare beauty of Horezu Monasteries you have something to see and discover.

The road was full of laughter and games. We weren't bored at all. He was happy along the way to his destination. The road was easy and intriguing without any unpleasant incidents.

When leaving the monastery, on the right side you can see the Olteț Gorges and the Polovragi Cave, they make up a protected area of ​​national interest, located in Oltenia, on the territory of Gorj County. Our guide told us many interesting things about these places, but unfortunately we did not have time to visit them, because we had other locations waiting for us to see them.
Our next destination is Bistrița Monastery and Arnota Monastery, both monasteries are a short distance from each other, impossible not to pass and not to visit both.

Bistrița Monastery, founded by the Craiova boyars (Barbu, Banul Craioviști and his brothers, Pârvu vornicul, Danciu armașul and Radu postelnicul), was built between 1492-1494. It is located in the village of Bistrița belonging to the commune of Costești in Vâlcea county, on the valley of the river of the same name.

After 1989, the monastic life acquired new valences. Since 1999, the monastery took over the leadership of Arnota Monastery by transforming it from a monastery of monks into a monastery of nuns.

I'd better let you discover for yourself this wonder left to the greatest founders of our nation for us.

A legend says about Arnota Monastery, that Matei Basarab, being pursued by the Turks, took refuge on a mountain plateau where there was a mountain lake with a lot of reeds, due to the fact that the place was on the southern slope enjoying a lot of sun. There were ruins of some churches near the lake, and Matei Basarab decided that if he escaped, he would found a monastery.
Each monastery has a beautiful and interesting history, about which there is much to tell and tell. I'd better let you make a foray into the history of these wonderful places I'm telling you about.

The impressions are big and beautiful, hard to tell, but it's great to visit. After that we took it to the Pătrunsa Hermitage and the Pahome Hermitage and another Bradul Gurguiata-Vâlcea hermitage, which was on our way. I said it's a shame we didn't pass by and see these hermitages.
The Pătrunsa hermitage was built in 1740 by Bishop Climent of Râmnicu in memory of the fact that here he was born by his mother Paraschiva Modoran from Pietrarii de Jos, fleeing over the mountain for fear of a Turkish invasion, taking refuge at the foot of Buila mountain, instead called Pătrunsa today. The hermitage was destroyed after the fall of a rock, being rebuilt in the second half of the eighteenth century, by the postman Dumitru, the archpriest Pietraru and the postman Ion Bărbătescu, probably descendants of Bishop Climent.
The hermitage is still in good condition today and is declared a historical monument.
The next hermitage I visited is the Pahomei Hermitage, which is located on the territory of Băile Olănești, in Vâlcea County, this monastic settlement, passes on a practicable and accessible forest road and by car, to Izvorul Frumos, which springs from under the rock cliff almost 50 meters long, on which the hermitage church is built, dedicated to "The Holy Prophet Ile Tesviteanul".

From the current inscription of the hermitage it results that the founders are Pahomei the monk and Sava Haiducul in 1950, justifying the name of the Hermitage from Izvor Frumos.

The church built under a large rock (on which is the image of the Lord), with a waterfall of mountain water nearby, cold as ice, awaits its visitors in silence and prayer.

And about the Bradul Hermitage, I will tell you briefly some information that was told to me by the guide. I don't even know what to tell you, there is a lot to tell. But I will try to tell something interesting and useful.

Bradu Hermitage is an Orthodox hermitage located in Gurguiata, less than ten kilometers from Băile Olănești resort, in Vâlcea County. Located at a distance of about 25 kilometers from the town of Râmnicul Vâlcea, the hermitage is located in the middle of the forest, in a very secluded area. The last three kilometers cannot be traveled by car, pilgrims have to walk this distance.

The Bradu hermitage was built on the foundation of an older hermitage, called "The hermitage under Râpa Bradului", also dedicated to Saint John the Baptist, which already existed in 1737. The old hermitage, built of wood, was erected by the hermits of the place, before dated July 15, 1737, when it is mentioned by a document of the time.

After visiting the hermitage we went to the bus to continue our journey to Căciulată. We still have some interesting locations to travel.

On the way I found out from the teacher that Băile Olănești, the locality is also called the golden springs, a name due to the iodized mineral springs brominated, sodium, calcium, sulfurous and chlorinated, hypotonic or isotonic. We passed through Olănești, then through Valea Cheii in front of us, on the right side, the Sărăcinești Monastery is visible in the distance.

Unfortunately, our plan was not to visit this monastery, but someone wanted to stop by to visit it, but in a hurry that time was pressing on us all. I had a lot to see.

I didn't know much about the monastery, I just found out something interesting from the internet. What can I say in a few words about her, she is beautiful and the view was indescribable.

Here, at the confluence of the Olănești river with the Cheia river, in the middle of Valea Cheii village, which until 1964 was called Saracinești as the inscription has been, for almost 300 years, in the wind and storms, the Church of the former Sărăcinești Monastery.

Our guide told us that it was a convent of nuns until around 1860, after that it was a monastery of monks until 1873. From 1873 to 1913 the church was a branch of Cheia parish and the houses housed the primary school in that students came from the neighboring villages: Păusești, Olănești and Cheia.

And from 1913 to 1960 it was a nunnery, when it was abusively abolished. Currently, the church serves believers from Valea Cheii village and the houses have been transformed into a home for the elderly. The property of the monastery (church and precinct) was not returned even today despite the steps taken.

After visiting this beautiful monastery, we passed the Ocnele Mari Salt Mine, the conductor told us very little about this location. I did not go down, only in passing as the Răureni Chemical Platform. In passing, he told us about the two objects that were in our direction.
Our direction Govora Monastery which was planned a long time ago. Govora Monastery, the last location was Cozia Monastery, Căciulata which was the final destination. The nunnery, dedicated to the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin, Govora Monastery is located at the foot of Cosul Mare hill, within the commune of Mihaiești in Vâlcea county, 6 km from Băile Govora and 18 km from Râmnicul Vâlcea, on the former Hinta estate.

The fact by which Govora effectively contributed to the promotion of the Romanian nation's culture and for which it would forever be registered among the monasteries of culture in the country was the establishment of the printing house inside it. This was done at the command and expense of the wise voivode Matei Basarab and with the effort of the abbot Meletie the Macedonian, who had brought it from Kiev, given to him by Petru Movila.

Govora Monastery remains in the history of the nation as the host of the first printing in Romanian from Govora after Coresi's Transylvanian printing. The rooms where the old printing house operated still exist today.

At Govora, a place of prayer, meditation and culture, you meet at every step the history of the homeland. It's as if you see the shadow of the old voivodes, who stood guard defending the country's old borders and the right faith.

This establishment awaits its visitors in the specific atmosphere of peace and quiet.

After visiting the Govora Monastery, our next destination was the Cornetul Hermitage, former hermitage of monks, today the Cornetul Monastery dedicated to "The Beheading of Saint John the Baptist", was founded by the ruler Mareș Băjescu and his wife Maria, in 1666. The altar of was painted in 1741. In 1808 it was destroyed by fire, being rebuilt and painted in 1835. In 1898 the railway was built and the tunnel that passes under the gates in front of the church being necessary to demolish the cells. All that remains of the old buildings is a leaflet, the walls and the defense tower to the north and east of the church.

The dome and part of the altar were demolished in 1916-1918 and rebuilt between 1923-1925. The last restoration of this historical monument was made in 160 by the Directorate of Historical Monuments. The painting is worked in fresco, the altar being painted in 1761 by the painters Radu, Mihail and Iordache, and the nave and the narthex in 1835 by the abbot Irinarh.

After that we went to the Frasina Monastery, the Church of the Frasina Monastery, also called the Great Church, dedicated to the Assumption, with the whole building, in the shape of a fortress, is the foundation of St. Calinic of Cernica, the bishop of Râmnicu, who built -between 1860-1863, the year in which he consecrated it. Painting, made in Avachian oil. This church is a historical monument.

I leave it to you, my dear readers, to discover it for yourself through its inner and outer beauty by visiting it.

We went to Căciulata, it was already late. This was the final destination that day. We stayed at a hotel.
We rested a bit, had dinner together. After that we walked around the city. It was cool, cloudy weather outside. But it didn't rain. We started walking to Cozia Monastery, located 3 km from the spa resort Călimănești Căciulata on the right bank of the Olt and 20 km north of Râmnicul Vâlcea, the monastery complex from Cozia, dedicated to the Holy Trinity, at the beginning was known as the Nucet Monastery, only later receiving the name of Cozia, after the nearby mountain.

In the narthex are the tombs of the voivode Mircea and the nun Teofana, the mother of Mihai Viteazul, the nun after the death of her son, who died in 1605. The tombstone of the bedroom is a copy of the original and dates from 1938.

I was very impressed by the church painting. I later found out from a nun, the painting of the church was done in fresco, in 1390-1931. It was kept in the narthex. In the nave and altar the painting was also worked in fresco, in 1707, on the occasion of the repair works made in the monastic ensemble from the time of the diligent Șerban Contacuzino. It was rebuilt by Preda the painter and his sons, Ianache and Mihail. In 1984-1986 the entire mural was restored.
The entire monastic settlement is located in a quiet natural setting, surrounded by tempting natural beauties. Monarchs lead a very austere life, services are held at night, and food is without meat.

We walked through the Căciulata Central Park, for moments of relaxation in the vicinity of the Olt River cliff, we admired the surrounding landscape, we accessed the pier for boat rides, or we took a short walk on the Olt Promenade, the cliff that connects the park to spas.
After leaving the park we took the spa route that connects Călimănești to Căciulata, through a 2.3 km pedestrian alley, arranged through the forest, which can be covered in about 40 minutes. The alley starts from Călimănești, behind spring 7 and ends behind the Trăian Căciulata Hotel.
We quickly arrived at the hotel where we were staying, because it was already getting dark. Nothing could be seen. Only the silence of the evening and the chirping of the birds already preparing for bed. The teacher came and asked us who wanted to go to the evening service at Cozia Monastery. The distance between the hotel and the monastery was about 1 km, you could walk in 25 minutes.
We went with her some colleagues to the evening service, outside she was of wonderful beauty. There was a ringing of the bell, announcing that the service was beginning. It was cool outside, there was the smell of incense from afar.
The service was beautiful, the peace and quiet that the nuns transmitted vibrated your whole body and soul. He was charged with positive energy and optimism for the rest of his life.
The headmistress informed us that we would leave at around 8 in the morning. He told us to wake up around 7 in the morning and get ready to leave. The road would be long and tiring. I still had to visit a few monasteries in the region and there are many. We had to see them all. They were planned since leaving Brasov.

Continuing this journey I will tell you in the second part of the diary, and what happened during our trip.

                      To be continued! 
                                                         Written by Boguș Elena

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